Indian Creek: The Last Days

Our last day at the Creek began with packing the vehicle which proved to an adventure of it's own. After futile attempts to remove the sand from our gear we spent over an hour stuffing our gear into every crevice of our vehicle and was relieved that it fit.

 The Crew packing up from our abode...

We spent our last days on the Battle of the Bulge Buttress. There to my delight I found many larger cracks befitting of my hand size. It was time for me to put up lead rather than mooching off the ascents of others. After some pondering I took to a route entitled "Pigs In Space" rated at 5.10c. The route looked unique in that it was more varied than the typical Indian Creek splitter. I took some deep breaths, slapped some chalk on my hands, and began climbing. Shortly off the deck I found a tough section of off-hands splitter crack that got my breathing  hard. I placed a cam high centered my focus and plugged my hands in slowly making my way past the section. From there the crack began to flare but opened into a comfortable size that allow me relatively stress free climbing. When I nearly reached the top the route proved difficult again as the crack narrowed a difficult width in a flared roof. Within sight I could see my goal where the crack opened up again I could again get a comfortable hand jam. Placing a piece high I set about the puzzle and got myself a foot higher and placed another piece for assurances. It turned out to be necessary, as I stepped out onto the exposed face I found myself fighting tremendous rope drag as the rope was catching in the narrow crack. I made a desperate reach for a solid jam but found my strength waning and the inevitability became apparent to me. I let go wanting a controlled fall and swung down only 3 feet and heard a loud POP! My gear held but as I looked up my last cam was holding on by a single lobe and gave me the impetus to quickly begin climbing again. After much fidgeting I could not replace the cam in a more secure position and knew I would have to make this move knowing my gear would likely not hold another fall. Climbing again, I reached high with a better knowledge of what the cracks asked of me. With grunting and explicatives, I made made my way past the moves and shortly clipped the anchors in triumph and relief.

We would each make several more ascent before saying goodbye to our friends from Cali and the sandstone of Indian Creek. We reluctantly turned our backs to the wall and hiked down. We sped  Northward through Moab reaching it's borders as night began to descend. After a quick poaching of the local hotel hot tub we again took to the road seeking our destination.... the base camp of Castleton Tower!

Castleton Tower

Castleton Tower is listed as one of North America's 50 classic climbs. Steeped in a rich history, since it's first ascent in the 70's it has captured the attention of climbers throughout the years. The 400 foot pillar of sandstone majestically reaches into the desert horizon. It's sight inspires awe and the contemplation of it's evolution. We arrived at base camp in the cover of night and yet could make out the shadowed specter of the towers presence amongst the starlight horizon. Unwilling to unpack the car we decided we would sleep under the stars and each sought shelter amongst the desert Junipers. We awoke in the early morning dusk to a layer of frost on the ground and could hear the familiar chime of climbing gear. Given the towers popularity it often requires a early start so as to beat other parties to the climb and waiting in line to ascend. We began the day under motivated and questioned whether we would climb at all. But suddenly a spark of motivation lit within the group and we lept into action. In less than 20 mins we had racked up and found ourselves making our way up the long approach.

Weaving our way to the base of Caslteton

Arriving at the base of the tower the crisp morning air refrigerated the rock before us. We each made our final preparations before harnessing ourselves and racking up gear for battle. We had decided to climb the popular Kor-Ingalls route which rated at 5.9+ and we surmised would be smooth cruise to the summit. The despite easier rating the route's 4 pitches were laden with mostly off-width climbing and chimney (which are wide cracks in which you can fit your entire body or a whole leg into), which is well known to make for strenuous and awkward climbing.... and more importantly, difficult to bring gear wide enough to protect falls.

As Sevve took to the route as a part of our first team I began my mental preparations as I would soon lead the second team. The guide book surprising did not call for much in the order of big gear despite my impression of the climbing ahead of me. However, I trusted the guide book and left behind the wider and heavier pieces. Matt and Sevve had finished the first pitch and I began my ascent. After climbing some easy scrambling the route transitioned into the shadows of a narrow and nasty squeeze chimney (meaning it is only wide enough for your body sideways but not width wise) of 20 ft in height .

 

Matt peaks out from the chimney of Pitch 1

It became immediately clear that the difficulty rating for this route were in the old school methods. You see in the old days the hardest routes ever climbed were considered 5.10 and would not go higher. So as climbers began to push the limits of difficulty the 5.10 became more and more difficult and thus the lower ratings as well. Yet in modern times the ratings were expanded to go from 5.10 to 5.15 and ratings at the lower levels have generally eased. Given that the route was first climbed in the 70s this 5.9+ was going to feel far more difficult than a modern 5.9. As I belayed my partner up, I watched Sevve pick his way up the second pitch. However, about halfway up he appeared to run into some difficult climbing. After he and Matt had attained the top of the second pitch, I took to climbing again knowing fully that this may be a difficult pitch.

 Sevve picks his way up the second pitch

However I was completely unprepared for what lay ahead of me. The route opened into a difficult mix of off width and exposed face climbing. What's more is that I quickly discovered that I did not have adequate gear. I was finding few smaller placements and I had only one piece large enough. Before long I found myself with a unsteady foot cam and foot smear for feet and a single elbow lock meanwhile 10ft below me lay my only #4 cam and 200 ft of open space. I had little choice but breathing steadily from the exertion and stress.
 

Myself perplexed and desperately looking for gear placements on Pitch 2

For the first time in the trip I was happy to see the crack before me narrow to of hands as I plugged in a piece with relief. Clipping into anchors completed the pitch I was feeling feeling shaken by the stress of the last route.

Above me Sevve took to the crux pitch. He was sailing along as he usually does, however I could see that it was not easy by any stretch. My thoughts drifted to my gear and how badly I wanted the three bigger pieces I had left at the base camp. After a hard decision, I decided I would have Sevve's partner Matt trail our rope behind him and belay me up on top rope. I felt I was no longer in the mental position to climb the next pitch especially given my gear situation and the fatigue after the last pitch.

 Atop the 3rd pitch I await my lead of the final pitch

After climbing the 3rd pitch on top rope I was highly relieved that I hadn't lead it.... a hail of unabashed explicatives the entire length of the pitch was indicative of the frustrating nature of the pitch.

 Matt taking on the final pitch...

Looking upward only one short pitch remained to the summit of Caslteton Tower. It proved straight forward as we quickly made the summit. Smiles beamed from each of us as we stood enraptured by the landscape as the desert sandstone made it's desperate reaches to grasp the marbled grey sky.

 The Minnesota boys atop Castleton Tower!

There we stood 400 feet closer to the heavens having climbed a metaphor so keenly representative of the human journey. We tied our ropes and began or rappel of the Northern face of Castleton, I slipped over the edge of the first pitch and began the descent into the open space upon the strands of our trusted ropes. Reaching the desert sands below us we hurried to our vehicle with hunger tugging at our insides.

Matt on his first multi-pitch rappel

Sevve devours with Castleton in the background...

We again repacked for the long journey home to the North Country. We drove into the eastern horizon reluctantly leaving behind us the desert beauty and carrying with us the gifts of priceless memories still wrapped in the freshness of their evocation.

Indian Creek: Part 3

As the dawn of our fourth day warmed our pleasant gulch with the light of the sun we each rose keenly aware of our fatigue. We had decided that it was time that we took a rest day to regain our invigoration. Furthermore, our gas tank was running low enough that we would have to now in order to have enough range to reach the next gas station. The Californian crew having arrived a day later than us decided the would continue climbing. After a slow and lazy morning we drove into Moab and set about our errands.

In the desert there is one element that manages to unavoidably pervade every crevice of your existence....sand! It was impossible to completely remove from dishes while water was a scarce resource. You would find yourself chewing bits of it in your meal, accumulating on the rim of your newly opened beer can, constantly grinding between your toes, and brushing it out of your sleeping bag before bed. The desert sands insidiously crept into every imaginable place. So while in civilization in Moab we worked find peace from the sand by washing our dishes clean of it.

Myself climbing at Potash Rd

The warmed the earth more than it had done all trip. Given the weather we could not help but at least do a small bit of climbing on what was to be our rest day and headed to Potash Rd in Moab. Sevve took to leading a 5.11 finger crack and I followed his lead. Meanwhile Ben and Matt worked on leading some sport. We arrived back at camp welcomed by the firelight of our west coast companions our stomachs already satisfied by the Moab Brew Pub. I slept with a renewed hunger for the morning and the climbing that would follow.

Yet when the morning light came to my eyes, I peeled back the layers of my bivy to see an ominous looking horizon. By the time we were all awake, a dark line of clouds was organizing in the western horizon and rumbling with thunderous threats. While the West Coast crew had decided to take a rest day, we remained optimistic and began driving towards the climbing area. But the landscape became shrouded by the encircling grasp of the sky's unsettled clouds. The winds grew angry as we turned our vehicle and headed back to camp to ready it for the rains. As we sped down the back country roads, a wall of what was first sleet and soon transitioned to snow. The landscape was abruptly adorned in a veil of white starkly contrasting the red stone of the desert. We abandoned all hope of climbing and drove to Moab.

Copyright Burgess Norrgard... Tree Against the Ominous Sky

Yet in Moab we found hope in blue skies and sunshine as the weather abruptly and miraculously changed. We decided we would climb in Kane Springs Canyon and the "Ice Cream Parlor" climbing area. There we found a day of lie-back training as Sevve had ascended the area's namesake... the ice cream parlor crack.

Matt Climbs...

It was a a crack of loose fingers and provided little potion other than to lie back all 60 ft of it.  On my first attempt I had to stop twice for rest as I had been moving to slowly and with poor technique. Wanting a better run at the route I rest and went back at it having a more successful ascent.

Myself on Ice Cream Parlor Crack

We ate in civilization before returning to our abode in the quite isolation of Indian Creek..

I went to bed that night with the cracks of Indian Creek calling to me in my sleep. The next day would be our last in Indian Creek.

Sunset over the desert

Indian Creek: Part 2

The wind tugged upon my bivy and a dim light had come to my eye's awareness. In rising from my shelter, I was greeted by grey skies and a cold wind. Each of us slowly awoke and quietly began our individual preparations for the day ahead. Embarking upon the  second day amongst the sandstone of Indian Creek, we had decided we would climb at the Fin Wall.

I welcomed the morning approach as it not only warmed me against the harsh wind of the day but slowly loosened my sore muscles. Arriving at the Fin wall, it became clear after a glance at the guidebook that this was going to be a tougher climbing day for me. One of the learning experiences that comes with climbing at Indian Creek is that you become painfully aware of your hand size. In Indian Creek the cracks tend to minimally vary in width... meaning that your hand size and how well they fit into the crack will largely determine the level of difficulty of a given climb. The cracks vary from widths of fingers, hands, fists, or bigger. While in Indian Creek I quickly became aware that I have rather large sized hand... the largest in the group in fact... therefore my preference of routes differed.

Perched surveying the landscape at the Fin Wall

Upon looking at the guide book much of the routes were calling for 2.0-2.5 sized protection (to be placed in the crack), which lies in that frustrating range where my hands were too big to fit into the crack, and yet the crack was wide enough that I couldn't get fingers to stick well. Upon mounting my first route of the day I was already spouting explicatives as only half of my hands sunk into the blackness of the crack before me. Often I learned that in Indian Creek if a crack width does not fit you, you will find yourself in the strenuous position of lie backing sections and thinly gripping the edge of the crack. The day was challenging but endowed me with a new skills and realizations about techniques to deal with the adverse crack widths and made it clear to me that strength and efficiency in lie-back technique is important.

As the sun began to hang low on the horizon we stripped ourselves of our down jackets and prepared for the trek back homeward. Every night communally we would create our meals often being a random conglomeration of veggies, cheese, and summer sausage in a thick soup in which we lovingly labeled "goulash".

Fire side stories became exchanges of the cultural use of words which differed between the Californian and Minnesotan factions at camp. We Minnesotans learned the proper usage of "heinous", "psyched", "raw dawg", "bro", and "sick". Meanwhile, we versed them in the proper MN pronunciations of the long "O" sound, usage of phrase such as "Jeeze", "You bet", and how to be overly conscientious.

The morning after looked much like the morning before in weather, but the sun fought in line with sky for brief appearances. Waking I spooned up some left over the "goulash"and admired the soreness that graced my limbs. Mornings were generally quiet as we gradually eased into the exchange of words.

The climbing gear heaped in the back of the SUV under guidance of our friends started the engines and made for the Cat Wall. The approach began with a classic desert off-road driving. Piling six into the SUV, I jumped onto the back bumper looking for the wilder of rides and some fresh air. We made way through a 3 foot high wall of tumble weed and balanced the vehicle from rolling on the pitched double track leading up to the cat wall.

 

"Fat Cat"... 5.11a

When I reached the Cat wall and took to my belated surveying of the guidebook I was pleasantly surprised by what I saw. Having more gumption I took to leading a 5.11a entitled Fat Cat. Gear hanging from my sides I took a deep breath and began my ascent. It started hard in a flared crack I place a piece high and hung for a bit. The crack soon opened up beautifully to my favorite width as I began to sink multiple #3 cams. Near the top I came to the realization that I had brought too little gear and lead me to nervously run out the distance between my pieces as my breathing became heavy with exertion and adrenaline. Each movement was calculated for efficiency and every hand placement measured for sureness, and still I felt my energy waning. I reached the top and clipped into the anchors relieved and smiling down to my belayer Ben. We took to a couple more routes and my ascents felt more and more solid. We climbed late into the afternoon sun, clinging to every the last bits of daylight. It was a strenuous day and I had felt all the better for it.

We retreated to camp with bellies longing for sustenance. It was short night for me as fatigue had began to weigh upon my eye-lids. I lay in my bivy with the desert sand beneath me and let darkness fall across my eyes welcoming a coma-like slumber. That night I dreamed my first dreams of climbing in years and must have smiled unconsciously in my repose.

Indian Creek: Part 1

My eyes surveyed the landscape surrounding around me. Amongst the cloudless blue skies the red rim of the Colorado National Monument loomed in the Southwest horizon as walked the ever warming pavement of Fruita Colorado.  On a park bench I sat lazily strumming my ukulele soaking up rays of the sun. Only hour before I had been dropped off at the local camp ground awaiting the next stage of my journey. I had a day and night to kill as my climbing friends who had only just left the cold of Minnesota where in route to pick me up. With my Ukulele strapped to my back, I had a quiet evening wandering the quaint streets of Fruita and mingling amongst the multitude of mountain bikers and locals that inhabit the Hot Tomato Pizzeria. I slept with a clear mind admiring the stars from my bivy.

In the morning my phone rang out with the voice of a friend on the line, warning of there impending arrival. I jumped the barbwire fence surrounding the campground, stashed my packs in a wooded ditch, and walked to the nearby diner to appease my complaining stomach. The phone rang again as I walked toward a group of smiling fellows... my companions had arrive. After stocking with food at the local grocery store we mounted the open road in the direction of Moab. There we ate our final civilized meal at the local pub before continuing toward the fabled majesty that is know as Indian Creek.

Just over an hour from all civilization, Indian Creek was developed in the climbing scene in the early 70's and whose popularity had ballooned in the last decade with the growth of sport of climbing. Indian Creek is hailed for it's smooth, varied, and difficult sandstone cracks that attract trad climbers from all over the country. We arrived in Indian Creek as the emblazoned sun was ready to depart the sky and its glow clung to Wingate Sandstone. With noses pressed to the windows of the vehicle our eyes greedily searching for cracks to climb. The vast amount of climbing opportunities quickly became apparent as miles of cliff lines filled with countless cracks graced our star stuck eyes.

  The desert beauty that is Indian Creek

 

After a long search for camping, we rallied down into a small sandstone laden gulch, set camp, and plotted our climbing plans over the pale light of headlamps. Putting ourselves to bed, ahead of us lay a week of adventures amongst the desert beauty

The we awoke to a cold and grey morning. We hastened to cook a quick breakfast and drove to what would become the morning routine: a  stop at the out houses... a simple luxury. Arrived at the desired trail head, we briskly made for the "Scarface" wall. My day would begin with the first trad lead I had done in almost 2 years as medical school had kept me from the rock. Despite my month of hard training in climbing gym, I found myself nervously racking up for a short 5.9 crack. While I consider myself fairly well versed in trad climbing, my hardest leads have been 5.9 in rating... the easiest routes in Indian creek just began at 5.9 and a majority of which were more challenging. This was going to be a trip to test my skills and build them. My companion Ben had come down after making halfway up the 5.9 and I led what remained of the route. It was by no means easy, as we all took to removing the rust the long stationary drive had bestowed upon our climbing.

 

Day one... Sevve tackles a 5.11

Yet by the end of the day smiles were abound and the sun warmed our skin. We walked down in fatigued and content and took to driving to our abode in the Gulch. Turning of the main road we were greeted by a crew of four smiling faces on the roadside. Sevve had invited several of his friends from Yosemite to join us at our camp.

The night was spent engulfing our sustenance beside the fireside warmth and sharing of stories of adventure with our now expanded crew of climbers. I awaited the morning ahead and fell asleep quickly and soundlessly in shelter of my bivy...

Climbing Zion: Learning To Aid Climb

The second pitch of "Organasm" with the roof looming ahead

The next morning we awoke and slowly arose from our slumber as Zion canyon slowly warmed in the morning sunlight. Our plan for the day was to tackle "Organasm" a 5.8 C2 aid/ free route. The route was going to be our warm up and practice sessions in aid climbing that were to prepare us for our big wall multi-day climbing adventure.

The Zion canyon walls soar up 2000 ft as we drive in and park the car near the approach. The approach was cold proposition because we had to ford the 40 degree waters of the Virgin River to reach the opposing canyon wall while carrying our gear-laden packs. Emerging from the waters with numb feet we hiked up the hill reaching the route.

This is "Th Organ" and our route "Organasm" ascended up the right middle column of rock

It started with a 5.8 double crack system to a large ledge with some loose slabs. It then proceeded up a tricky open book crack (crack between two faces coming together at less than a 45 degree angle) that was unrated...but we personally rated at 5.10. It then continued the next pitch up the crack up an overhanging slope that split through a 8 foot 5.11c/d roof 150 off the deck. The route then continued with the crack up the face and topping out 300-400ft up.

The first order of business was for me to figure out how to aid climb. Aid climbing (to those who don't know) is basically climbing on gear...you place a piece in the rock.... clip a webbing ladder to it....step up and place another piece higher and repeat. It is a technique used for climbing routes you wouldn't ordinarily be able to climb with your hands (free climb), unless you were a climbing God (5.13d..etc). So I understood the concept but hadn't done a bit of it. I aided up the 5.8 and 5.10 sections just for practice. My first impression was that I that aid climbing takes time....forever in fact, considering you are only able to move up little more than a half body length per piece.

Myself moving up the steps of my aid ladder

Tyler and Scott ascended the rope to my position and we set off to take on the next pitch. Tyler styled the roof naturally...made the whole thing look easy. Scott went next and cleaned the gear up to Tyler's position, while I in the back ascend the rope in thin air. The next pitch Scott took on while we hung of the anchor. It was dark by the time we reached the top, our head lamps shined through the night and our rappel to the ground. When we went to pull the rope from the ground it managed to get stuck on the route and forced us to leave it and come back the next morning to re-climb the route and free the rope.

So the next morning Scott quickly free climbed the first pitch. I then aid through the giant roof to the second anchor and freed the stuck rope from the night previous. Aiding through a roof requires some trust in your gear. You are hanging 150 ft off the ground hanging off mechanical advantaged gear stuck in the rock... you have to trust your gear and you have to place it well!!!

Dangling 150 ft up on the lip of the roof on "Organasm"

Upon getting to the top, Scott and Tyler had a plan in mind...to free climb the first pitches including the daunting roof. So I belayed from the anchors above while Scott free climbed up to the roof, risking a big swing into open air. Meanwhile Tyler snapped video on rappel while Scott powered through the 5.11c/d roof triumphantly, with tourist below snapping pictures.( seethe video below!)



Tyler then made his attempt and was out on the lip of the roof, fell, got back on the rock and finished it. Knowing my ability level was not interested in attempt on my part. It was a long day for us all and we went home excited as children at our adventure.

Studying up for our next adventure...

The next day Tyler and I packed our gear and made preparations for the climax of the trip...a 3 day, 2 night ascent of Moonlight Buttress via the route "Lunar Ecstasy". In the meantime, we made this day a rest day and hiked up the "Narrows" of Zion canyon. Putting on wetsuits we hiked up wading in the river as Zion Canyon narrowed to 3-4 arm spans wide and the walls rose up 1500 ft from the river.

Light piercing the shadows of "The Narrows"

It was surreal and so pristine.... I walked awe-struck to the extent of silence...lost for words as we forded the river and passed through the piercing sunlight and shadows of the towering the walls.

More canyoneering in the Narrows

Climbing Zion: The Arrival

Leading a beautiful crack

After sleeping 4 hours and finishing a medical school exam, I found myself boarding a plane for Las Vegas Nevada 6 hours later with my friend Tyler Overby. As the plane left the ground, it was clear we were not the norm of folk whose intention was to enjoy the manufactured spectacle that is extravagance of Vegas. We were in route to Zion National Park in southern Utah to climb the largest vertical sandstone faces in the world. It wasn't long before we were discovered, peppered with questions about our upcoming adventure, and offered a celebratory beer.

After touching down in Vegas we were aware that there were still obstacles to overcome before reaching our destination. We arrive at 9:30 pm and the shuttle to St. George Utah did not run again until 8 the next morning. We hunkered down in a quiet corner of the airport for the long night. After discovering no food establishments in the airport were open, we asked the airport information were the nearest exit was....and were informed that you couldn't just walk out of the airport...there are no side-walks, and in other words the Vegas hotel shuttles and cabs needed our money! Feeling the cold hand of oppression, I was determined to break out of the Vegas airport on foot. My first objective was to get the lay of the land. I headed to the top level of the parking garage and seeing the expanse, I picked my escape route. Soon I was out amongst the vacant rental parking lots and quickly jumped a fence to the busy streets with a clever smirk. I walked 3 miles to the strip, picked up some food, walked back, and fell asleep on the airport concrete next to our bags.

I awoke disoriented. Regaining my senses, I followed Tyler to the shuttle and 2 hours later was on a side walk feasting on a Dairy Queen blizzard in the sunlight of St. George Utah. Sam, a friend of a friend, arrived in a red pickup truck taking us to Zion.

After checking in at our lodgings and visiting local park ranger and friend Scott Rysdahl we warmed up with some bouldering to finish off the day.

Tyler Overby doing some sick move on an unrated boulder

The next morning looked cold and ominous as snow and sleet fell from the sky. In avoidance we didn't leave the house until noon. We then left toured local coffee and climbing shops in the nearby town of Springdale just outside the park until our caffienation wore off and darkness fell on the Zion Canyon.

The next morning we drove back St. George to hit up some of the local crags. We started our day with a 5.9+ trad line in the city limits of town. It was a thin corner crack, starting hand size narrowing to finger crack and open back up again. Sam was first to hit up a lead, followed by Scott, then Tyler. I having already top roped the line red-pointed the the route last. We then hit up an adjacent 5.10a crack. Scott quickly styled the route, followed by Sam, then Tyler. I feeling more confidant gave it it go. Half way up after some tricky moves my forearms were burning...I plugged in another piece and lower down then climbed back up and move by move finished my first 5.10a trad line.

Myself leading a 5.10a crack

We grabbed lunch at Del Taco and then ended the day at the Chuckwalla wall, which was comparable than an glorified and crowded outdoor climbing gym... in other words an extremely popular outdoor sport crag. Feeling tired I top-roped a 5.10a and a 5.10c route. We then dropped off Sam to his shuttle to the airport for his flight home and drove back to Zion with the sun dropping behind the red sandstone horizon. It was a day that left me with a face marked with the expression of contented exhaustion as I fell asleep in bed of the pickup as it drove on.

Onlooking as Sam leads

The Summer of Climbing

Realizing that I have not written in very long time it seemed fitting that I continue with the stories of my adventures this summer and fall. Let's first talk about climbing... I began guiding climbing as of this summer and it was a wonderful way to get outside, make a few bucks, and get people excited about rock climbing. In the meantime, I planned my days off to head to Colorado to climb Trad. On July 20th myself and Jeremy set off for Estes Park Colorado, home of Rockie Mountain National Park. After long hours of driving straight through the night, we arrive exhausted. The first of the wildlife that we encountered was the most massive and abnoxiously loud red neck I have yet encounter. He managed to keep me awake while he took shots of Jim Beam in front of his three children that night.

The next day we woke around 5 am and headed out to Lumpy Ridge to climb some classic multi-pitch trad. The route of the day was entitled "Osiris" and was going to be my warm up route for the trip. It was a 5 pitch 5.7. I knew it would be less than 5 pitches due the fact we had a 70 meter rope and the routes were named in days of 50 meter ropes. However the routes were rated in the days of the old Yosemite decimal system. The first pitch followed multiple pocket-like cracks following a main off-width. This being Jeremy's first time seconding trad, I attempted to maintain my composure as the pitch was proving to be tricky and c aught me a little off guard. But after a bit of grunting and made it past the first pitch and continued on towards stringing together the next.

The first pitch of "Osiris"

From that point on the pitches went pretty smoothly and we made it up in three pitches with a smile.... it was good to be back on the mountain. We avoided the noon heat and decided to call it quits for the rest of the day. The next day we woke early again and headed towards, Melvin's Wheel and four star 5.8+ route. It was the very same route that I had seconded at age 18 for my frist multipitch. This route was sustained 5.8 all the way up. The pitch was solid finger crack going up and over a bit of an overhang which was challenging enough to be fun. The next pitch proved even more interesting up classic straight narrow hand crack to a large roof.

the second pitch of "Melvin's Wheel"

I reached the roof and set up the hanging belay. The next pitch was very nerve racking. It climbed a grunt worthy off-width crack through the roof, up and over into a chimney. It was my first chimney, and was not so fun. It was hugely flairing from foot width at its base to 30 feet wide at a large angle. Worst of all it had little to no protection. So up I went and my run out crept up to 40 ft, I was breathing hard and in some awkward positions...and finally found protection. Then continued up to the rap, in which we botched and ended up down climbing what should have been a rappel. It was a satisfying day. The next day we attempt to climb Longs Peak, but got off track and managed to climb the crazy scree field from Chasm Lake up to the keyhole. Jeremy and myself decided to back out at this point because, the days previous climbing combined with the scree was wearing us down significantly and we needed rest before heading to Gunnison Canyon.

Gunnison Canyon

We arrived at Gunnison canyon to the ominous rumblings of thunder storms. We met up with my friend Sevve and Collette and went out bouldering, while discussing plans to take on "Maiden Voyage". Two days later we packed up the car at 4:00 am and took off heading for the North Rim of Gunnnison canyon. When we arrived it was raining lightly and looked pretty grim. After contemplating our options we got in the car and began to drive away...but the sun reared through the clouds and we turned around got out and hiked towards the canyon. After finding the fixed rappel lines we descended 1500 ft into the canyon below. The approach was a cake and walking toward the route it looked good. "Maiden Voyage" one of the easier routes (being a 5.9) in the park which is well known for it's challenging trad.

"Maiden Voyage" followed the left edge of the Checker Board wall shown (see the climbers on the crux)

The first pitch and second pitches strung together were pretty mellow, and I set up a hanging belay under a roof next to the crux. The crux was challenging is the best of way, I head out the the edge of the roof and plugged a cam, and picked my way up... with some moments of intensity. The rest of the climb was gorgeous. I sat and smiled as I belayed Jeremy up the last and third pitch.... the rushing river echoing in the massive cavernous canyon with not a soul to be heard or seen... absolutely pristine! We left in the heat of the afternoon and headed back to Denver then homeward. It was a great trip and left me hungry for more trad climbing.

Devils Tower: Triumphant Birthday

I slept soundlessly with only enough conciousness to be awoken by the downpour that ravaged my tent. The blew hard and shook the tent and somehow I put aside any concern and fell back to sleep. When the morning light came to the gray sky it was still raining and dreary. I fumbled over to the car put my contacts in and gaining vision again decided to drive. My friend and I left on a small excursion into civilization, namely to Spearfish, SD a half-hour's drive away.

Some where along the drive it became more and more clear that this day was somehow important or special. Then it came to me... ah, yes... today was my birthday. Seeing as it was raining, we went to the library to check the internet. After discovering that the only place to go to get out of the rain in the country was in the desert of southern Utah and Nevada, we decided we go get pizza to celebrate another year of aging on my part and attempt to suffocate our rain filled misery with greasy food. Somehow it worked, because when we emerged from the restaurant the sky was clearing and the rain had stopped.

We hurriedly raced back to Devils Tower and rounded up our climbing gear. We hiked up to the tower and decided upon a route entitled "El Cracko Diablo". It was solid crack in a left facing dihedral that led up to a small roof and continued towards to top of the tower. The first pitch went easily with solid hand and foot jams creating an cautious optimism. The next pitch rated 5.8+ went equally well as the first, jams where solid... I felt good enough to hum a little tune to myself as I went. When I reached the roof, I looked at the crack and its sustained width and realized I would need my #2 and #3 sized cams back to finish out the pitch. So I set up a trad anchor and belayed my friend up to my position bringing my needed camalots from my placements below.

the route (left center, left facing dihedral)

From the roof I could see end of the pitch was near and my excitement grew. I continued upward past the roof and each move brought a bigger grin to my face. I finally pulled my way onto the final ledge threw my hands into the air let a joyful whoop. I quickly set up an anchor and belayed my friend up to my position. We continued upward a very easy scramble for 200 ft when the terrain began to level out. The route we had climbed was in the shade of the tower and

atop the tower, looking down

on the opposite side as the sun. As I crested the slope of the top, my first sight of the summit was blinded by the sunlight of the setting afternoon sun that had nearly reached the horizon. I walked through the ankle deep grass to the aged wooden stake that marked the summit and smiled broadly. The wind swept over the green flowing plains of Wyoming on my birthday and I sat contently with a broad smile, 876 feet in the sky.

Preparation

The coming weeks host a menu of activity that is sure to create lasting memories. Besides adjusting to life as a hermit and living out of a tent for the next two weeks, I will spend four days getting certified by the American Mountain Guide Assoc. then driving to Wyoming's Devils tower to climb. However in the interim I am preparing for the rigors ahead.

In light of this, I went with friends to Palisade Head and lead trad on the giant cliffs lining the shores of Lake Superior. We started the day by climbing "Quetico" crack, an off-width that I managed to climb with one eye previously this year. Then we to took the route "Danger High Voltage", which proved to be a fun mix of off-width crack, finger and hannd cracks, and face climbing.

climbing "Danger High Voltage"

We then took to "Phantom crack", a 5.9 crack requiring knowledge of hand and foot jamming techniques...

reaching high into the crack on "Phantom Crack"

myself cursing a stuck cam

On the way back I tackled a new adventure...learning how to drive a manual trasmission after a day of hard climbing. I got home with the general sense of fatigue that lent itself to pleasant sleep....